Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
